FEATURE:

Surf’s still up for these seniors

In the early 1500s, Juan Ponce de Leon searched for the mythical waters of the Fountain of Youth in order to cure his sexual impotency and prolong his life. The Spanish conquistador never found the fountain, but “discovered” Florida in the process. The main reason Ponce never located the legendary vitality-restoring waters is that he was a kook. To find eternal youth all he had to do was look over the bow of the ship and see the waves.

Much like Ponce stumbling upon the Sunshine State, many wave riders have accidentally tapped into the Fountain of Youth through surfing. Catching a wave everyday won’t get rid of the wrinkles, gray hair or liver spots.

But, a good surf daily will reduce your waistline, eliminate cellulite and keep your cardio and muscles fit. More importantly, surfing is a great motivator for clean living. Getting good waves early in the a.m. is a perfect reason to avoid fatty, unhealthy foods, alcohol and long nights.

Fitness and good health aside, surfing also has many social and spiritual benefits. The camaraderie at a surf spot rivals that of a lodge or bridge game. Furthermore, riding waves with young people or loved ones makes an old heart pump with youthful exuberance.

The following surfers profiled are all older than 50, but are very much young at heart and still in great shape. Although they have different approaches and opinions to surfing, they all agree on one thing: Hawai‘i’s surf spots are a lot more crowded than when they were young. While Ponce de Leon failed, these wave riders and many others like them have found the 21st century Fountain of Youth.

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The Heart-Felt Coach
Ben Aipa

Three years ago, master board builder and veteran surf coach, Ben Aipa had a heart attack. The myocardial infarction didn’t kill the agro, “natural foot,” but left him bummed out.

Here was a guy who was on the pulse of high performance surfing since the ‘70s. Aipa’s “Sting” (his signature surfboard design) combined with the quick and powerful styles of Larry Bertlemann, Buttons Kaluhiokalani and crew took surfing from graceful to extreme.

From there, Aipa coached all of the great pro surfers from Hawai‘i at one point in their career — Sunny Garcia. Kalani Robb. Andy and Bruce Irons. Melanie Bartels. And most recently, Alex and Koa Smith from Kaua‘i.

Ben Aipa > Surfer, shaper, coach and father > Inducted into International Surfing Hall of Fame in 1991 > Founder of Aipa Surfboards in Kalihi, creating custom boards since 1966 from swallowtail designs to sting to the modern longboard; daughter Lokelani does Polynesian graphic designs for his surfboards; son Akila also is a professional surfer and board shaper > Represented Hawaii in surf competitions from the 1960s through 1970s; now coaches young surfers

Yet, all of the talented surfers that Ben has influenced never had a more profound impact than the blonde, teen-age girl from Kaua‘i named, Bethany Hamilton. After a shark attack left Bethany with only one arm, her parents contacted Aipa to coach her back to winning form. After working with Aipa for two years, Hamilton won the Explorer’s Women’s division at the National Scholastic Surfing Association Championships in California.

The experience for Bethany was exhilarating, but for Ben, it was rejuvenating.

“During that time I had a heart attack and thinking about (Bethany) it helped me go through my own thing. I would ask, ‘how does she do that?’ And, it’s all heart,” explains Ben. “Bethany is so warming and I think about her a lot.

“We keep in touch and it’s a journey that’s still going on. If I get my worst day of surfing I think of her and how your heart can overcome.”

At the moment, Beth and Ben are preparing for the Triple Crown of Surfing and 2008 World Qualifying Series. Despite age and past ailments, Ben Aipa’s heart is pumping with passion more everyday.

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The Artistic Dolphin
Jeannie Chesser

Surfers and dolphins are similar in many ways. They both ride ocean swells for fun. Furthermore, cetaceans and humans are the only mammals that have sex for pleasure. And when a fellow wave rider or dolphin is in peril, the whole community or pod comes together to help.

This was apparent at the Hard Rock Café on the night of Sept. 20, when the Hawaiian surf industry, pro surfers, Ala Moana Bowls locals, well-wishers, friends and family came out to raise money for life-long surfer and artist, Jeannie Chesser and her battle with cancer.

Earlier this year, she was diagnosed with merkel cell carcinoma, a rare type of disease in which malignant cancer cells are found on or beneath the hair follicles and usually appear as firm, painless shiny lumps of skin on sun-exposed areas of the head, neck, arms and legs.

“I had a lymph node in my upper thigh that had to be removed, my left testicle which I like to loving call it,” Jeannie explains jokingly. “I didn’t even know what it was because it was just a lump and I didn’t feel tired or sick.”

After the lump was removed, Chesser began chemotherapy. As a result, her energy levels and drive to surf decreased, but that couldn’t stop her. After her first seven-hour treatment of chemo, Chesser paddled out to her beloved Ala Moana Bowls, rode a few waves and instantly felt better.

This isn’t the first time she’s used surfing to overcome adversity. When her only son Todd, a pro surfer and world-class big-wave charger, drowned 10 years ago at age 28, “the only medicine that worked (for the grief) was surfing.”

Now, although the cancer treatment continues, Jeannie keeps active with surfing, stand-up paddle surfing and bike riding. She won’t have to worry about drowning in medical bills because the Hawaiian surf community would never allow it.

While she has every excuse to be lethargic and slow like a whale, Jeannie and her friends will make sure, cancer or not, that she will always be riding waves like a dolphin. To help with her medical bills, “Da Friends of Jeannie Chesser” have established an account at First Hawaiian Bank Kahala, 1348 Hunakai St., Honolulu 96816.

For more information on Jeannie Chesser and her art visit www.surfingarts.com.

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The Big-Wave Sages
George and Keone Downing

It’s a popular opinion that young surfers are better suited to charge big waves than an older person. A 20-something year old, wave rider has a flexible body, innovative boards, strong lungs, no family obligations and an ambitious attitude. But, there is one critical thing that a young, big-wave hell man doesn’t possess – wisdom.

In January 1990, Keone Downing showed the surfing world how in-depth understanding pays off at 20-foot-plus, Waimea Bay (“The Bay”) by winning the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big-Wave Invitational (“The Eddie”). At the time, Keone was 36 years old and most of his competition was nearly a decade younger than him.

“I was very lucky to be able to honor such a great waterman,” says “the regular foot” of his victory. “And to surf perfect Waimea for over two hours.” Like three-story waves that day, Keone’ s approach to the giant surf was nearly flawless. While the competition charged with reckless abandonment and received countless beatings from a monstrous Mother Ocean, Keone stayed cool and picked off the choice waves of the sets.

His ability to recognize the best waves at Waimea was passed down to Keone by his father, legendary, big-wave rider George Downing. According to Surfer Magazine, in the 1940s, George laid the foundation for every charger from then until now by creating detailed lineups, plotting out reefs using bathymetric charts and refining the big-wave gun.

Nowadays, George is the Executive Director of “The Eddie” and decides if the waves are big enough for the illustrious event, which has only been held five times since 1986. It takes a wise man to make such a huge call and despite advances in technology George still listens to what Waimea Bay is saying.

Keone Downing > Second winner of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Akau Big Wave competition in 1990. > Twice won the junior division of Makaha International Surfing Championships > Finished fifth in 1970 World Contest at Bells Beach, Australia > On team that won five Molokai-Oahu canoe paddle races in 1980s > Learned to surf at age 5 in Waikiki; learned his big wave riding skills at Makaha under the tutelage of his father, George.

“I tune into the guys who chart the storms, pay attention to buoy 501,” says the 77-year-old. “When (buoy 501) starts to get active, I make sure (everyone’s) ready to hear ‘The Bay’ call the day.”

Come this December, George and Keone will be on call for “The Eddie” and Waimea until February. Although Keone’s everyday surfboards have “gotten a little larger, wider and thicker,” his Waimea gun has the same dimensions as the rhino chaser he rode in the ‘90s. If George gives “The Eddie” the thumbs up, Keone is a wise wager over a younger bruddah.

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The Surfing Senator
Fred Hemmings

If a Hollywood actor can become the president then it’s not a problem for a world champion surfer to be elected to the senate. 1968 World Surfing Champion Fred Hemmings became Hawai‘i State Senator in 2000. So far, the greatest achievement in his political career has been working with Gov. Linda Lingle and President Bush to preserve the Northwest Hawaiian Islands, thus creating the largest marine sanctuary in the world.

Fred hasn’t forgotten his roots as a wave rider and encourages the state and the public to support professional surfing. While events like the Sony Open and Pro Bowl are allocated public funds to run their sporting events, pro surf contests like, The Triple Crown of Surfing, need to fight for their permits every year.

Fred Hemmings > Grew up in Waikiki; survived polio > Wrote the quintessential surfing book for the 1960s, “The Soul of Surfing is Hawaiian” > Honorary Life Director of the Association of Surfing Professionals and the United States Surfing Federation (amateur surfing) > Received Duke Kahanamoku Sportsman award in 1969 > Received Service to Sport of Surfing award from Association of Surfing Professionals in 1989 and Legends of Surfing award in 1994 > Inducted into the International Surfing Hall of Fame in 1991 and the Hawaii State Sports Hall of Fame in 1999 Surfing accomplishments, 1958-‘69 > Makaha International Surfing Championships: third place junior men 1958; first place junior men 1961 and 1963; first place senior men 1964; first place 1965 and 1966; second place 1967 > Peruvian International Championships: first place 1964; second place 1967 > World Surfing Championships: first place 1968; fifth place 1965 > Duke Kahanamoku Surfing Classic: third place 1967 > In 1976, founded the International Professional Surfing organization with Randy Rarick. This was the first world pro organization with a circuit of surfing events and through TV coverage popularized the sport of surfing with the masses > Produced Smirnoff World Pro-Am from 1969 to 1974, then founded and produced the Pipeline Masters from 1971-1988, the World Cup of Surfing from 1975 to 1988, World Team Surfing from 1976 to 1980 and the Triple Crown of Surfing from 1983 to 1988. > He participated in the Outrigger Canoe Club and Hui Nalu Canoe Club Molokai to Oahu race from 1956 to 1988, first to finish paddler and steersman in 1967, 1968 and 1975 (in record time). In 1984, he was first to finish the Masters in record time, placing third overall

“One of the things that I’ve been advocating for years is that Hawai‘i is one of the greatest playgrounds of the world. Certainly, the best water sports playground, we are one of the best venues for sports in the world,” Fred explains. One of the main problems is that many people outside of the Hawaiian surf industry don’t see what the senator sees.

Furthermore, many non-surfers begin protesting when there are several surf contests at a beach, not taking into account the money that is made by the surrounding local economy. “Hawai‘i has succumbed to allowing the loudest protesters to rule the day,” says Fred. “It’s a self-defeatist attitude and that’s why I’m in politics.”

No longer at the forefront of pro surfing, Fred spends more time riding a canoe than a surfboard these days partly because of hip surgery that makes standing on a surfboard difficult. But, he knows that pro surfing can benefit all of Hawai‘i’s citizens if they were to give it more support.

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The Native Teacher
Tom Pohaku Stone

Tom Pohaku Stone is proof that you’re never too old to learn something new. After years of surfing exotic waves, professional windsurfing and three kids, Pohaku went back to school in 1993. That year he got his GED and registered at Windward Community College.

He then transferred to the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa and received a bachelor’s degree in Hawaiian Studies in 1998. Three years later, Pohaku would receive a master’s degree in Pacific Island Studies and follow that up with a master’s in American Studies in 2004. Currently, Stone is working on a doctorate and teaching at Kapi‘olani Community College.

Throughout his entire career as a teacher he has never lost sight of his love for wave riding. In fact, Pohaku created and teaches a Hawaiian Studies course on surfing titled, “The History of Surfing from a Native Perspective.”

Tom “Pohaku” Stone >Native Hawaiian surfer and waterman; former surfing and windsurfing champion > Served as lifeguard for City & County of Honolulu from 1978-1993, working at various beaches throughout O’ahu from the North Shore to Kailua to East Honolulu and Waikiki Achievements: > Constructed first papahe’enalu wiliwili (olo surfboard) in contemporary times (June 2003) >First to windsurf every channel of Hawai’i; only windsurfer (and paddleboard) to sail O’ahu to Kaua’i (1985-’87) > Canoe voyaged the entire length of the eight major Hawaiian Islands > Solo paddleboard Moloka’i to Waikiki, 1996; two crossings in less than two weeks > Participated in Moloka’i to O’ahu Paddleboard Race, 2002, 1997; paddleboard attempt O’ahu to Kaua’i, 1998 (longest paddleboard attempt on record, 120 miles) > Organizer of Ho’olaule’a o Lono-Makahiki, UH-Mänoa, November 1997-‘99 and 2002 > Organizer of the Blue Water Open Ocean Challenge, 1987; first group windsurfing and sailing canoe channel crossing > Organizer of Surfing Expression Session at Sunset Beach, 1991-‘93 > Founded the He’enalu/He/eholua Surfing Series in early 2007 featuring historic wooden surfboards weighing more than 100 pounds and sleds (12-feet long with no fins or steering). He is credited with revitalizing the sport of he’e holua (Hawaiian sledding), a centuries-old extreme sport. He is first person to ride a holua in more than 100 years. > Shares his knowledge and aloha as a teacher and craftsman, creating hand-carved papaholua (Hawaiian sleds) and hand-shaped papahe’enalu (surfboards) for the Hawaiian Boarding Company

“Surfing is usually from a foreign perspective,” says the “goofy foot.” “There has never been a true, institutionalized surfing format that is presented from a Native Hawaiian perspective and I saw the need to have that.”

Through his class, Pohaku rediscovered the ancient art of building papa he‘e nalu (wooden surfboards) and papa holua (mountain sleds). His desire to build and ride those ancient crafts stemmed from his curiosity for answers that were lost in the past.

“Even though I enjoy doing it, it comes back to the knowledge. The only way we can answer the questions for my kupuna (elders) is to actually go do it,” explains Pohaku. “I’m the type of person that needs to know for himself.”

Pohaku is still an avid surfer and rides conventional shortboards when the surf is good. But, when the waves are bombing, he opts to ride his 10-foot, 2-inch, 100-pound koa wood board just so he can learn something new.

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The Ring Master
Randy Rarick

From October to December the surf industry circus comes to the North Shore of O‘ahu, the main attraction is the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing and Randy Rarick is in the middle of it all.

As Executive Director of the Triple Crown, Randy has the daunting task of organizing and running three events that can potentially decide the world champion of surfing and the qualification of young pros trying to get on the World Championship Tour. Compact that competitive drama with herds of employees, judges, computer technicians, sponsors, journalists, photographers, fans and tourists and you’ve got a leadership position comparable to the Ring Master of a circus.

Randy has been with the Triple Crown from its humble beginnings, noting that it’s grown like California grass in an abandoned pasture. “The first Pipe Masters I did with Fred (Hemmings) was a card table, six chairs and a bullhorn,” says Randy. “Now we have Internet trailers, satellite feeds, a staff of 65 people, a payroll over a million dollars and 800,000 dollars in prize money.”

Randy Rarick > Executive director of the Triple Crown of Surfing, held in November and December at three sites on the North Shore – Op Pro Surfing Championship at Haleiwa’s Ali’I Beach; World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach and Pipe Masters at Banzai Pipeline, the longest running professional contest in the U.S. and surfing’s most prestigious individual contest > Learned to surf from legendary Rabbit Kekai at age 10; he won Hawaii state championship as a junior in high school > Retired from competitive surfing in 1977; in the late 1960s and early ‘70s, he was a world-class surfer, repeatedly reaching the semifinals in many of the big surfing contests around the world; he has surfed in more countries – 60 – than anyone else > Represented Hawaii on World Team in early 1970s, surfing in South Africa for the first time > He started his own surf shop in 1969 at the age of 19 after studying accounting and commercial law at Sydney Tech in Australia; he’s still shaping surfboards and has exclusive license for the famous “Bear” brand > Received Lifetime Achievement Award from Surf Industry Manufacturers Association in August 2007

Under Randy’s lead, the Triple Crown generated more than $9 million in revenue last year. Randy was mentored in surf contest production by Fred Hemmings and learned a lot under his tutelage. “I competed in the early Smirnoff and Duke meets and decided that I didn’t want to keep competing, so I became an administrator,” says the “regular foot.”

“Basically, the ground work Fred laid; I took the lessons from him and applied it when he went into politics.”

After the circus leaves Randy spends his time shaping surfboards and traversing the globe, both activities are a form of recreation and work. The self-proclaimed “Surf Entrepreneur” of 12,000 boards averages 150,000 airline miles a year. With all of that on his plate, Randy still manages to get at least a one-hour surf session everyday.

“What I like about surfing is that it allows me to get in the water, in the sun and interact with nature. It keeps you young because you’re not sitting in an office building breathing in air conditioning,” explains Randy.

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The Retailer
Craig Sugihara

It’s the early ‘70s and the world is changing. Surfboards are shrinking, while surfers’ Afros are growing. Like many surfers in Hawai‘i at the time, Craig Sugihara was rocking a fro and riding shorter equipment.

The “regular foot” was too enamored with the shortboard revolution to sit in class and was learning more from watching Joe Kuala, Ben Aipa and Sparky make boards. “I quit going to college after two years and started building boards,” says Craig. “After that my whole life revolved around surfing”.

Eventually, Craig would parlay his passion for wave riding into a lucrative business. He had the bright idea to open a surf shop in Pearl City, a location 20 minutes away from the nearest surf spot. Many surf industry insiders thought he was nuts. It didn’t matter though and Sugihara persisted.

He opened up the first Town and Country surf designs in 1971. From that point on, the surf shop with the Ying and Yang logo took off like a Pipeline set wave from the Second Reef.

Craig Sugihara > President and founder of T&C Surf Hawaii > Surfing defines his career, his accomplishments, his lifestyle > Learned to surf in early 1960s by renting boards at Waikiki Beach for $1 a day; was hooked on sport after his first wave > Honed his surfboard-making skills during visits to Surfboard Makaha in between classes at the University of Hawaii > Worked at Greg Noll surfboards before opening his first Town and Country shop in 1971; now there are eight T&C stores in Hawaii and 11 international licensees

Today, T&C surf designs boasts eight locations on O‘ahu and a star-studded surf team of pro longboarders and shortboarders. As president, Craig has also licensed the brand internationally in South America, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Japan. With his wife Linda and sons, Ryan and Gareth, helping run the business, Craig has rekindled his passion for board building and has a line of longboards and retro shapes available to the public.

“(Surfing) is so much more advanced today, the sport has grown so much,” says Craig, who still surfs daily. “Equipment is so advanced and refined.”

Like most things, surfing is in a nostalgic trend where consumers are buying shapes that were made popular in the 1970s. T&C and Craig know how to meet those demands and will continue to be leaders in the surf industry sans the Afro.

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