COLUMN:

Basic
Training

by Jim Loomis

Many kamaaina are frequent travelers, but because we usually fly everywhere, we rarely see much of the U.S. heartland and very few of us have any concept of how vast the Mainland really is.

Here’s a travel suggestion: The next time you’re planning a vacation there, think about flying to the West Coast and taking a train to your final destination. If that conjures up the mental image of a crowded commuter train, think again. An Amtrak long-distance train is an iron horse of another color; it consists of sleeping cars and coaches, a dining car and a lounge car, all serving the needs of 200 to 300 passengers.

Above: Most young children enjoy train rides, but be sure to take plenty of games and books along to keep them occupied. Right: You’ll enjoy dining in a rolling restaurant. Top: Mount Shasta provides a dramatic backdrop as the Coast Starlight makes its way from Los Angeles to Seattle. Photos courtesy of Amtrak.

Interested? Here are tips that’ll help keep your trip on the right track.

The first rule of train travel. Relax! Remember that you’re in no hurry. In fact, that’s the reason you’re on a train in the first place. It’s much more than just another mode of transportation; it’s an important part of your whole vacation experience.

Sleeping car versus coach. Train travel is inexpensive if you travel in coach class, but be aware you’ll sleep sitting up and share space with about 70 other people. If that doesn’t appeal to you, consider sleeping car accommodations. You’ll have privacy by day and a real bed to sleep in at night.

The roomettes are very compact, but quite efficient. There are several airline-type bathrooms in each sleeping car for roomette passengers. Bedrooms are quite a bit larger than roomettes, and each includes a washbasin and a lavatory. Roomette and bedroom passengers have access to a shower room on the lower level of each sleeping car.

Sleeping car accommodations cost more—a whole lot more during the peak summer season (see sample fares in the sidebar). To soften the blow, all dining car meals are included in the price of the ticket. For the two-night Chicago-Seattle trip, that could be worth about $150 for two people.

Pack smart. You’ll be much more comfortable in your cozy room if you leave your suitcases in the storage area near the entry doors of the sleeping car. Take only a tote bag to your compartment containing just what you’ll need for the night: toiletries, a change of underwear, a clean shirt, etc.

Making connections. If your itinerary involves making a connec-tion—that is, getting off one train and onto another—beware! Because Amtrak’s long-distance trains operate on tracks owned and controlled by the freight railroads, they often are delayed because of freight traffic. It’s not uncommon for trains to run many hours late; missed connections are the inevitable result and potentially a huge headache. It’s a good idea to stay overnight in the connecting city and continue your trip the next day. Think of it as a good opportunity to get to know a little more about Chicago, Seattle, New York or one of the other great American cities where Amtrak trains connect.

Above: If you like, you can enjoy meals and snacks in your sleeping car accommodations. Photo courtesy of Amtrak. Top: Car attendants like Isaac Rayfield, who works on the Empire Builder, handle the long hours with good humor and a smile. Photo by Jim Loomis.

Enjoy the dining car. Eating in a rolling restaurant is what passengers remember most about their train trips. During the Golden Age of train travel from the mid-1930s to mid-1950s, competing railroads would vigorously promote the quality of the food served on board. Today, Amtrak’s dining experience is less than gourmet, but perfectly fine. On a recent cross-country trip, the dinner menu offered beef bourguignon, pork shanks, seared salmon and roast chicken. You even can order a split of acceptable wine, usually a choice between two reds or two whites.

Unlike breakfast or lunch, passengers are seated for dinner by reservation. A member of the dining car staff passes through the train every afternoon distributing specific reservation times. They start this process in the sleeping cars, which means passengers there usually can decide when they want to eat—another perk that comes with that high-priced ticket.

Amtrak dining cars have community seating, meaning you’ll find yourself at a table for four, seated with two or three strangers. By all means, take this opportunity to get to know some of your fellow passengers! You’ll undoubtedly enjoy the experience.

Is train travel for you? Truthfully, it isn’t for everyone. Some people are too impatient. Others find the accommodations too confining. But for me, President Harry Truman said it best: “You get a real feeling of this country and the people in it when you’re on a train.” In my opinion, there’s no better option than relaxing, eating and sleeping in a tidy little hotel while America passes by outside my window. Give Am-trak a try and see if you don’t agree.

back to top