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True Grit |
| Enthusiastic and determined, Carole Kai keeps jumping over hurdles to keep the aloha flowing for dozens of Hawaii charities. |
Tools for Life |
| From state-of-the-art scooters to emergency response systems, Assistive Technology Resource Centers of Hawaii (ATRC) connects the elderly and people with disabilities with the latest devices to improve their lives. |
COLUMN:
A Sip of
Sonoma
by Marty Olmstead
Blessed
with a favorable climate, rural beauty and historic sites, Sonoma
Valley has been known as a premier winemaking region since European
immigrants began growing grapes there more than a century ago. Ample
sunshine and cooling breezes off the northern tip of San Francisco
Bay create ideal growing conditions, and volcanic rock from surrounding
mountain ranges provide a diverse terrain that supports almost every
kind of grape varietal.
Some 40 wineries are located within 30 minutes of downtown Sonoma, where adobe and false front buildings dating from the 1800s now house a bevy of restaurants, hotels and boutiques. The southern entrance to the 17-mile-long valley is about a 45-mile drive north of San Francisco, making it one of the most accessible wine regions in California.
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The busiest time of year in northern California’s wine country is harvest season, usually from mid-August to early November. During those months, visitors can watch the grapes being crushed and put into fermenters that will ultimately produce some of the finest wines in the world. Although the pace is slower from December through July, some wineries offer tours virtually every day of the year. Most charge a fee for tasting; some also charge for tours, but these fees normally are applied to wine purchases made on site.
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Here are three Sonoma Valley wineries with special features that warrant a visit.
Hanzell Vineyards
The secluded hillside location of this historic winery is part of its charm. By the time visitors crest the final curve of the narrow access road and glimpse the original winery building—a distinctive, steep-roofed replica of Burgundy’s Clos de Vougeot estate—they definitely experience a sense of arrival.
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Ben Sessions, son of longtime winemaker (now consultant) Bob Sessions, or current winemaker Michael Terrien usually greet guests and conduct a 90-minute Heritage Tour & Tasting that includes a look at the winemaking facility, the barrel-aging cave and the Heritage winery. The tour culminates with a tasting of Hanzell’s prized pinot noir and chardonnay in the old proprietor’s office, where a balcony offers sweeping views of the valley floor, Sonoma Mountain and estate vineyards that were planted back in the 1950s.
“Every guest is a VIP,” says Sessions. “We tailor the tour to our guests’ interests whether it’s agriculture, technology, architecture or design.”
Hanzell’s two-and-a-half hour Wine Library Tour & Tasting includes everything previously mentioned plus a seated tasting of two rare vintages. Another feature is the two-hour Sherpa Trek, a vigorous hike through the hillside vineyards that’s led by cheerful Nepalese guides.
18596 Lomita Avenue
Sonoma, California 95476
Open daily by appointment only
(707) 996-3860
www.hanzell.com
Heritage Tour & Tasting: $45. Wine Library Tour & Tasting:
$150 (four-person minimum). Sherpa Trek: $200, including a picnic
lunch. All tours are available daily by prior arrangement (reservations
are taken only on weekdays).
Benziger Family Winery
The Benziger family founded their 85-acre ranch more than 25 years ago on the slopes of Sonoma Mountain just down the road from the Jack London State Historic Park. They quickly found that Sonoma Valley’s warm-to-hot days and cool nights are well suited to several grape varieties, particularly cabernet sauvignon, which is planted in 65 percent of their vineyards.
Benziger has earned a solid reputation for site-specific farming techniques that maximize the potential flavor intensity for each vineyard block. It produces an extensive collection of wines to sample in its hillside tasting room, including cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc and Bordeaux-style blends.
The Benzigers are proud of their biodynamic approach to grape growing, which encompasses many of the principles of organic farming, such as the elimination of chemicals, but goes a step further, paying close attention to the varied forces of nature influencing the vine, including wildlife. During a tractor-pulled, 45-minute tram tour, visitors get a close look at the grapevines and a chance to glimpse the myriad animals, birds and insects that populate the estate’s three wildlife sanctuaries. The presence of foxes, owls and other wildlife provides a natural form of pest control, fostering healthy vines.
1883 London Ranch Road
Glen Ellen, California 95442
10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily
(888) 490-2739
www.benziger.com
Tastings: $5 for five wines; $10 for five reserve wines
Tour: $10, including four tastings
St. Francis Winery & Vineyards
With its red tile roof and sand-colored stucco exterior, St. Francis’s architecture reflects the region’s history. The town of Sonoma itself dates back to 1823, when the last and northernmost of the Spanish missions in California was founded. Faithful to mission style, the winery features a statue of St. Francis and a two-story tower with a bell that is rung to mark every hour.
Long known as the House of Big Red, St. Francis made its reputation with zinfandel, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, although it now produces chardonnay and many other wines that can be enjoyed on the terrace or in one of two tasting rooms.
In the Reserve Tasting Room, visitors can opt for a guided food pairing. A recent menu matched a chardonnay with edamame (soybeans) and green pea hummus on a pita chip crowned with a roasted grape; a rosé with butternut squash and carrot soup with hazelnut cream; a cabernet franc with a filet mignon meatball with a pomegranate and currant sauce; and a cabernet sauvignon with a risotto fritter with asiago and cream cheese topped with tomato and fennel sauce. The winery’s chef changes the menu seasonally to make use of the best quality ingredients.
100 Pythian Road
Santa Rosa, California 95409
(888) 675-WINE
10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily
www.stfranciswinery.com
Wine tasting: $5, $10 for reserve wines
Food-and-wine pairings: $20 (reservations suggested)